Frequently Asked Questions

For new work, the 2023 Oregon Residential Specialty Code (effective April 1, 2024) calls for R-49 in flat ceilings, R-30 in vaulted ceilings, R-21 in above-grade walls, R-30 under floors and R-15 at slab edges. For existing homes, the Department of Energy suggests R-60 for an uninsulated attic in our marine zone, or R-49 if there are already 3 to 4 inches. Those are targets, not requirements for adding insulation to an existing attic.

HomeGuide's 2026 guide puts attic insulation at about $1,000 to $2,700 for a typical job, with blown-in at $0.90 to $2.40 per square foot and spray foam higher. Crawl space insulation commonly runs $500 to $3,700, and spray foam for a whole house $8,000 to $20,000. Removal of old insulation adds about $1 to $2 per square foot. These are national figures; we give a written price after seeing the house.

Usually because of installation problems, not the material itself. Foam that is mixed or applied poorly can leave a lasting odor or pull away from framing, and HomeGuide notes occupants must stay out of the sprayed area for 24 hours or more while it cures. Some home inspectors and buyers also question foam sprayed on the underside of roof sheathing because it hides the decking from view. We use spray foam where it clearly does a better job and explain the trade-offs first.

Insulation is installed by insulation or weatherization contractors, and sometimes by general contractors or drywall companies. In Oregon, construction contractors are licensed through the Construction Contractors Board, and you can look up any contractor's license on the CCB website before you sign.

Not always. Dry, clean insulation can stay, and new material can go on top once air sealing is done. It should come out if it is wet, moldy, soiled by rodents, or blocks the air sealing that needs to happen. Vermiculite is a separate case: the EPA says to assume it contains asbestos and not disturb it.

We can tell you which parts of a job are likely to fall under Energy Trust's insulation offers, which have been tied to existing R-value limits and minimum installed levels, and we list both on your quote. Energy Trust sets the amounts, eligibility and contractor requirements and they change, so confirm current terms with Energy Trust before relying on an incentive.

Usually, yes, if the floors feel cold or the existing batts have fallen. In our wet winters, the ground cover matters just as much: fixing a torn or missing vapor barrier keeps soil moisture from soaking the new insulation. We check both at the estimate.

HomeGuide's 2026 figures put a typical attic job at $1,000 to $2,700, with blown-in insulation at $0.90 to $2.40 per square foot installed. A 1,000-square-foot attic can run $1,000 to $4,000 depending on method and prep. We give you a written price after seeing your attic.

New construction in Oregon needs R-49 in flat ceilings under the current residential code. For existing homes in our marine zone, the Department of Energy suggests R-49 if you already have 3 to 4 inches and R-60 if the attic is bare.

Yes, if the old insulation is dry, clean and not vermiculite. We air seal first, which sometimes means moving the old material aside, then add the new layer on top.

Most blown-in attic jobs on a typical house take a day, including air sealing. Removal of old insulation or rodent cleanup adds time, which we note on the quote.

Not when the attic is air sealed and stays ventilated. Problems come from warm, humid air leaking up from the house or from blocked soffit vents, which is why we seal and install baffles before insulating.

HomeGuide lists open-cell at $1.50 to $3.50 and closed-cell at $3.00 to $5.00 per square foot installed, with whole-house jobs around $8,000 to $20,000. Targeted work such as rim joists or a room over a garage costs far less. We price your job after seeing it.

Mainly because poorly installed foam can shrink, smell or hide problems such as roof sheathing that cannot be inspected. Properly mixed and applied foam in the right location performs well. We use it where it does a clearly better job than other materials.

HomeGuide says to vacate the sprayed area for 24 hours or more until the foam cures. The exact time depends on the product and how much is sprayed; we give you the manufacturer's reoccupancy time before we start.

It depends on the location. Closed-cell is better for rim joists, crawl space walls and shallow cavities where you need high R-value or moisture control. Open-cell costs less and works well in interior cavities and for sound.

For most existing attics, blown-in. It fills around wiring, blocking and uneven joists without gaps, and it is easy to add over existing insulation. Batts work well on clear, evenly spaced framing.

Cellulose settles about 10% after installation, so we blow it slightly deeper to end up at the target R-value. Blown fiberglass settles very little.

Yes. Dense-pack cellulose or fiberglass is blown into each stud bay through small holes drilled from inside or outside, or behind a removed course of siding. The holes are then plugged and patched.

HomeGuide lists blown-in attic insulation at $0.90 to $2.40 per square foot installed, and $1,900 to $7,800 for all exterior walls of a typical home. Fixr's average whole project is about $5,000. We price your home after measuring.

HomeGuide's 2026 guide puts most crawl space insulation jobs at $500 to $3,700, with a national average near $1,800. New ground cover adds roughly $1,200 to $4,000, and full encapsulation runs $3,000 to $15,000. We price your crawl space after inspecting it.

Batts pushed between floor joists without support sag over time, especially when they absorb moisture. We hold insulation in place with wire supports or netting and fix the moisture source.

Not always. Encapsulation can help where ducts and equipment are in the crawl space or moisture is severe, but it costs far more. Many Beaverton homes do well with a new ground cover, insulated floor and sealed rim joists.

Oregon's residential code calls for R-30 under floors in new construction, and the Department of Energy suggests R-30 for an uninsulated floor in our climate zone. Framing depth sometimes limits what fits, which we note on the quote.

Yes. Dense-pack insulation is blown into each stud bay through small holes, either from outside behind the siding or from inside through the drywall. The holes are then plugged and patched.

HomeGuide puts exterior wall insulation for an average 2,000-square-foot home at $1,700 to $8,500, with dense-pack cellulose at $1.60 to $4.20 per square foot. Patching and paint can add to that. We give you a written price after checking your walls.

Turn off the power, remove an outlet cover on an exterior wall and look beside the box with a flashlight. We also check from the attic and can use a thermal camera on a cold day to find empty bays.

Usually the attic comes first because it is cheaper per R-value. If the attic is already well insulated and the walls are empty, wall insulation is the next step for comfort.

HomeAdvisor's 2026 figures put attic insulation removal at about $600 to $1,200, averaging around $900, or $1 to $2 per square foot. Removal plus new insulation for a 1,000-square-foot attic is often $3,000 to $6,250 according to Fixr. We price your job after seeing the space.

If the insulation is soiled with droppings and urine, yes. The CDC says contaminated insulation should be bagged in plastic for removal rather than left in place, and droppings should be wetted with disinfectant rather than swept or vacuumed dry.

No. The EPA advises assuming vermiculite contains asbestos and not disturbing it. Removal should be done by a licensed asbestos abatement contractor; we can reinsulate afterward.

A typical attic removal takes a day, and reinsulation often happens the same day or the next. Heavy contamination, tight access or crawl space work can take longer, which we note on the quote.